Over the past decade, several brands have decided to pivot to a more “inclusive” marketing strategy, including lingerie superpower Victoria’s Secret. Earlier this week it was reported that, because of a revenue drop, the fashion line is ditching “wokeness” and returning to “sexiness”. In other words: say goodbye to overweight or “unconventional” models, and welcome back the Victoria’s Secret Angels with whom we grew up. Interestingly (and maybe just coincidentally), this was announced soon after they debuted an adaptive intimates line, featuring models with both common — and much rarer — conditions, like spina bifida or multiple amputees.

Brands which have made similar, “more inclusive” marketing shifts, have frequently been criticised for spreading pro-obesity or even “pro-ugliness” propaganda, while supporters have countered that it draws more people into fashion. Some more practical-minded observers have argued it’s about the bottom line: if a brand has obese models, it probably has obese customers. As it turns out, even if they do, those obese people probably don’t want to be reminded that they’re obese. Or, in Victoria’s Secret’s case, disabled as well.