SaidIt

SaidIt

magnora7[S] 6 insightful - 3 fun6 insightful - 2 fun7 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

Yeah I thought about giving it a try, but I have to dig up a section of the pipe I think, as well as cut out a section of sheetrock. The sharkbites might be a good idea, thanks for that.

I had some rugs in the garage and use it as a workshop, the rugs all got all wet. But that was my only real damage thankfully. There's probably some damage inside the wall too, but I might just let it go since it's just a garage exterior wall and the drywall in there is already a mess. Also I think it only leaked for an hour or so before we shut it off, and 98% of the water didn't go in the wall, just sprayed in to the sideyard. So hopefully maybe it'll be not a big deal. Maybe I will start cutting some drywall and see where the copper meets the PVC and just take the PVC off or cut it down to a short undamaged part. Also the PVC pipe coming out of the ground from the buried mains line completely shattered so I'm not sure how far I need to cut back on the PVC pipe and dig down before it's reliable again, or should I dig up the whole pipe back to the mains connection? Seems like I have to decide a quick fix vs a good fix... might have to settle on the quick fix for now because plumbers and parts are in ridiculously high demand. I think if I could get clean ends on my PVC pipes (where it's not fractured) I could do it. I'm just not sure how far I'll have to go in each direction before the pipe isn't brittle and fractured anymore.

Comatoast 6 insightful - 3 fun6 insightful - 2 fun7 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

To be honest, you should probably cut all the way to the main and replace it where you can with PEX. It's more flexible. Invest in an oscillating multitool. When you're putting the copper back, make sure you wrap it in pipe insulation.

As far as the drywall, stud finders will be your saving grace. At least in my experience,it's easiest to cut at the studs, that way you've got a good anchoring point instead of just trying to ugly-putty it back on there and have it fall through with so much as a fart. Once you've got the square back in, you can put drywall mesh over the seam spots and just do a putty/sand cycle until it looks fine. I would definitely check anything that got wet though,especially if you guys didn't have a dehumidifier and fans running down there the whole time. The rugs are probably fine, just pressure wash, then rent a rug doctor and shampoo the shit out of them.

magnora7[S] 5 insightful - 3 fun5 insightful - 2 fun6 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

To be honest, you should probably cut all the way to the main and replace it where you can with PEX

Oh can I bury PEX? Should I buy insulated PEX so when it comes out of the ground and goes in to the side of the garage, it won't freeze like this again?

Invest in an oscillating multitool.

What for?

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I just got a temperature camera so I can see heat leaks and fix the insulation.

I also have to find 5/8" drywall for the garage, and transport it to my house, and one sheet of drywall doesn't fit in my vehicle. But that's a problem for after the plumbing is fixed, haha

Comatoast 5 insightful - 3 fun5 insightful - 2 fun6 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

https://youtu.be/iUNc3zL3dws

https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/pex-piping-everything-you-need-to-know/

These two should be helpful, but you might want to look through other videos too.

The oscillating multitool can cut metal, drywall, wood, whatever. They're a godsend for anyone doing home repair or even hobby stuff.

If you can rent a small uhaul, or maybe just a trailer for the day that might help with the transport. Kinda spendy for just doing that, but it's an easy option if you don't know anyone with a pickup truck.

Zapped 5 insightful - 3 fun5 insightful - 2 fun6 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

I second getting a multi-tool as part of your basic home tool collection. You can even get a cheap one ($19) from Harbor Freight if you're a weekend warrior.

magnora7[S] 4 insightful - 2 fun4 insightful - 1 fun5 insightful - 2 fun 3 years ago

Thank you! I will research this stuff some more, I appreciate it.

Zapped 5 insightful - 2 fun5 insightful - 1 fun6 insightful - 2 fun 3 years ago

PEX expands without bursting if the water freezes inside it. You can bury it directly, but most plumbers around here will sleeve it in a larger piece of PEX to protect it against roots, rocks, and future digging. I think that may be a code requirement, too. Plus, if it does leak, the water will travel inside the sleeve instead of filling the ground soil, so you know it's leaking before you get a $300 water bill. The only time I've seen PEX cause problems is when certain well water corrodes the metal fittings.

Sharkbites are great, but are more expensive then regular fittings. You can get a PEX tool pretty cheap now and it's easy to figure out how to use. You can order everything you need from Amazon.

magnora7[S] 2 insightful - 1 fun2 insightful - 0 fun3 insightful - 1 fun 3 years ago

Thanks for the info!

bobbobbybob 4 insightful - 3 fun4 insightful - 2 fun5 insightful - 3 fun 3 years ago

my main line is just polybuteline, survives -15C frosts quite happily, uninsulated. I leave the tap at the end of the line dripping over the worst winter months, as moving water brings fresh energy and slows down freezing. you can get waterproof drywall too. its called aqualine down here in NZ. Might be worth it in your outdoorsy places, as we are due for a lot more cold in the future.

magnora7[S] 3 insightful - 1 fun3 insightful - 0 fun4 insightful - 1 fun 3 years ago

Thanks for the info. This my first time dealing with pipes freezing, it's just not a thing down here. Learned a lot of mistakes I won't be making again.